The Inexhaustible Virtues of the Navy Blue Blazer

 

If there has been one mainstay in the closets of well-dressed men for the past century, it's the navy blue blazer. It's the work horse behind any gentleman's wardrobe worth its weight in gold [buttons]. Navy is gentler (than black), softer (than black), more accessible (than black), and goes with anything you can throw at it. While routinely paired with chinos and loafers, the navy blazer works just as well mismatched with a charcoal wool trouser or dressed down over a pajama set.

Though most often associated with an emblematic silk tie and a certain hauteur, the blazer finds its origins on the river. The style originated with the jackets worn by members of the Lady Margaret Boat Club of St. John’s College, Cambridge—they were an eye watering red, suggesting their wearers were on fire, and so were called ‘blazers.’

 
Images by Nick Onken

Images by Nick Onken

 

Out grew the 17 year-old hand-me-down boasting uncle Chip’s Prep school insignia? Not to worry. Now is as good a time as any to get one made-to-measure that actually fits. An ill-fitting jacket is always going to look like it belonged to your ugly uncle.

Our house style embodies updated touches like a 2 button closure, a 3.5” notch lapel, natural shoulders, side vents, and flap pockets. Cutting it in a doeskin will keep it in rotation year round. It's a medium-weight wool with a short, soft nap and a tightly woven structure. Despite its softness, doeskin is hardwearing due to its compact weave. You want that contradiction in the cornerstone of your closet.

We take ours with gold buttons. They’re handmade in England by Benson & Clegg, a top quality bespoke tailor who happens to be a Royal Warrant holder to the Prince of Wales. The buttons are created by craftsmen following a tradition of artistry and excellence established in the 18th century. Dark brown horn works just as well for a more subtle touch…there is no rule against having both, after all.